Steps 1 & 2.   This page is fun.  Lots of little things going on and nothing difficult. 

First, cleco the E-615 and E-1015 reinforcement plates into position. 

Then, final ream or drill the holes common to the reinforcement plates and the skin, as well as the holes that will hold the nutplates. 

12/27/06  -  30 minutes

Steps 3 & 4.  Cleco the E-921 gussets into place and adjust their bend if needed.  Mine were fine.  

Now begin match drilling these with the E-905 ribs, using a #30.  Then switch to the E-1007 spars.  Not sure why the order.  Maybe they felt the spars were better able to hold the tiny gusset in place? 

12/27/06  -  30 minutes

Steps 5 & 6.   Cleco an E-1022 to the E-1007 rear spar, as shown, so the E-903 can attach to it. 

Then cleco the tip rib assembly into place.  If you, like me, had most of your clecos on the outside of the tip rib assembly, you'll have to move most inside. 

The assembly attaches to the E-1022 and to four holes at the E-1002.  You'll notice that there is only one way to get one of these things to fit.  The E-913 has to go between the skin and the E-1002.  I'm going to double check this, but it's the only way I can see it fitting.  Also, cleco the assembly to the E-1001B skin. 

Once you get things worked out, final ream or drill the #30 holes common to the E-1022, the E-1002 and the tip rib assembly. 

12/27/07  -  30 minutes

Step 7.  Cleco the E-1001A skin into place.  Make sure that the close-out tab in the top skin fits between the tab in the bottom skin and the E-1022 shear clip.  It's obvious once you take a look at it, especially since you want the close out tab with the hole to be on the outside of the one without the hole. 

12/27/06  -  30 minutes

Step 8.  Inset a VA-140 between the top and bottom skins at the trailing edge, as you did for the rudder.  (I couldn't find mine.  I know it's around the shop somewhere, but I just couldn't find it, so I "borrowed" a couple from the wing kit.  I'll have to replace those.) 

Anyway, cleco the VA-140 into place and mark both ends where you'll need to cut to make it just the right size and turn the VA-140 into an E-1023.  I used a dremel cut off wheel to do the deed. 

By the way, I've had some folks laugh at the ear and face protection I wear for such tasks.  All I got to say is that with the amount of tiny hot aluminum shards whacking me in the face as they come off that dremel wheel, I'm not about to test whether or not my glasses can protect my eyes, and they certainly can't protect my face.   As far as the noise and the ear muffs?  I like live music and the sounds of nature.  'Nuff said. 

Once you have the E-1023 made for both sides, cleco them back into place.

12/27/06  -  30 minutes