Step 2.   Dimple the two holes in each of the inner E-1022 shear clips, as shown. 

01/20/07  -  15 minutes (once you locate the little buggers)

Step 3.   Dimple the holes in the flanges of the E-1006 rib halves to accept the skin dimples.  Set up the pneumatic squeezer in your vise and this goes real fast. 

12/20/06  -  30 minutes

Step 4.   Dimple the two #40 holes in the web of the E-904 above the #30 holes.  If you accidentally have no brain at this point and do the two at the opposite end, well, then you have 4 dimpled holes and you'll have to dimple an extra two in the E-903, etc.   Don't forget to put on your brain, which from time-to-time I seem to neglect.  At any rate, dimple the holes in the E-903 that correspond to all the holes you just dimpled in the E-904. 

01/20/07  -  15 minutes

Step 5.   Dimple the top and bottom flanges of both the E-903 and E-904 tip ribs for the skin dimples.  This is easy except for the last two holes on either flange of the E-903.  It gets tight down at the tip, so you have to improvise a little.  I took my pop rivet dimple set and a c-clamp and got dimples, but not as good as they need to be.  I'm going to have to get them to dimple more, somehow.  I got this idea from Experimental Aero.   You have to modify the c-clamp by grinding down the top ridge to get it to fit at the narrowest point. 

1/20/07  -  30 minutes

Step 6.   Machine countersink the holes on both sides of each E-1023 trailing edge.  Best to use a jig, as shown in the picture, that holds the wedges perpendicular to the countersink bit.  Use the drill press.  This is a must.  Goes fast, once it's all set up.  Make sure you check every third or fourth countersink, however.  These cages often do not hold their setting. 

2/03/07  -  30 minutes

Step 7.   Put a slight bend inward on the trailing edges of all four E-1001 skins where they go over the F-1023.  I couldn't get good results with my Avery edge tool, so I took the advice given in Section 5K and used a wood block.  It seems to have worked okay.  The Avery tool would go over the dimpled holes and not make a clean bend. 

02/03/07  -  30 minutes

Step 8.   On the inside of each E-1001, mark where the foam ribs are to go, and scuff the skins so the adhesion is improved when you glue them in place with proseal.  In order to do this, I went ahead and cut out all the foam blocks, those for the elevators and those for the trim tabs. Might as well. Then I left the protective plastic in place on the skins, marked the location of the ribs, then removed the plastic where the ribs are to be placed.  I then scuffed that part, cleaned and moved on.  Check to make sure you're using aluminum oxide sand paper.  150 grit.   

2/03/07  -  1 hour