Steps 1 & 2.   Rivet the aft flange of the root rib to the rear spar.  That is, the two little holes. 

Then, bend back the top skin to gain access to the elevator gusset.  Using the pneumatic squeezer and some 470 4-4 rivets, rivet the gusset to the root rib.  I put the manufactured head on the inside.  Easier.   

03/24/07  -  1 hour

Step 3.   Now that you've finished off the gusset, you can close up the skin on this end of the elevator.  Accordingly, begin riveting along the front spar flanges from inside to the outside, and then along the root rib flanges from aft to front.  Both elevators, of course. 

03/24/07  -  1 hour

Steps 4 & 5.   Cleco the tip rib assemblies to both elevators, then rivet the E-1022 shear clip to the assembly.

Using the same sized rivets, namely 470 4-4, rivet the tip assembly to the front spar.  You'll need to remove enough clecos to raise the skin to gain access.  You'll need to drive these rivets.  The anvil shaped bucking bar will work. 

03/24/07  -  1 hour

Step 6.   When finished with attaching the tip rib assembly to the front spar, you can rivet the top skin on.  Since you still have the bottom skin loose, you can get inside with your bucking bar and solid rivet the two rivets that call for a blind rivet on the bottom skins.  They look hard to get to, but they are actually easy to do.  Use the same bucking bar that you did for step 5. 

Finish off the bottom skin, but this time you'll need to use blind rivets for those two holes.  Refrain from riveting the holes that are aft of the rear spar.   

03/24/07  -  1 hour

Step 7.  These were cut earlier.  But, if you're going step by step, then fabricate the training edge ribs.  Make sure you do use the sanding block to finish the edges right up the lines. 

I've stopped here and gone on to finish the trim tabs to the point where they, too, will require tank sealant applied.  I don't want to have to make up two batches of the stuff, just as I didn't want to prime twice. 

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Well, I'm back!  Make sure the foam wedges are sanded to the lines on the template.  Especially make sure that the indented section are each deep enough to fit over the spar flanges.  I laid a piece of sandpaper onto my band saw table, keeping the sandpaper stationary and moving the foam.  Worked great. 

02/03/07 - 30 minutes

Steps 8, 9 & 10.   Time to seal up the trailing edge of the elevators (and for me, the trim tabs).  Sorry about the lack of pictures.  Not too condusive to handling a camera during this time. 

For those who have decided not to use tank sealant, you can move on to the Page 16.  Otherwise, here are the steps I took, all of which worked nicely. 

1. Gather ye all materials. 
   • Popcycle sticks to scrape the tank sealant to a uniform thickness
   • Tank sealant ready to mix (including a mixing stick and small disposable bowl)
   • If you've purchased the sealant in bulk, then a scale to help measure 10:1
   • Lots of painter's gloves, six sets, cheap ones are fine
   • Paper towels or some type of disposable towel to wipe up drippings
   • Trailing edge ribs and the E-1023 Trailing Edges
   • Clecos, 2x6 boards, weights used to secure the structure while curing
   • If you're doing the trim tabs, like I am, the tabs, foam blocks, clamping blocks
   • Shop apron, or at least wear an old set of clothes
   • Put on some tunes and relax.  This is easy. 
2. I started with the trim tabs.  Before anything, look to make sure that you've marked which of the close out tabs goes to the outside.  It'll be the top tab.  Then, blow out or otherwise clean the inside of each tab. 
3. Mix up the tank sealant, making sure you have plenty. 
4. Using the popcycle stick, coat both sides of a trim tab foam rib, scraping the tank sealant thin, no more than 1/32" thick.  Make sure you do not get too much in that area that is to go onto the spar flanges. 
5. Put the first foam rib in the middle, followed by the one next to it, then the one at the end.  When you push them in, make sure they are not pushed in too far.  Make sure that the indented part fits nicely on the spar flange. 
6. Once all three are inside, take off your gloves, grab the clamping blocks and position one over each tab. Secure these tightly, then set the tab aside. 
7. Put on some clean gloves and repeat 4-6 above for the other tab.
8. You'll have your gloves off after the last tab, so now's the time to change the music, grab some water, etc.
9. Fetch the elevators and their foam ribs.
10. Clean inside the trailing edge area of the skins.  Find something that can prop open the area that you'll be working in so you don't grab the skins with your dirty gloves.
11. Smear the tank sealant onto a trailing edge rib, both sides, then put it into place, being careful to get the back positioned correctly on the spar flange. 
12. Smear tank sealant onto the other trailing edge rib and put into place.
13. Take the correct E-1023 trailing edge and smear tank sealant over both sides, scraping it down so it is just a thin film.  This is the gooey part, so don't get fussy.   
14. Position the E-1023 correctly between the skins.  It'll stay there if the elevator is flat on the bench. 
15. Take off your gloves and cleco the tailing edge together, starting from the center and moving to the outside and inside respectively, alternating the clecos, one entering from the top, the next from the bottom, and so on, to distribute the clamping load. 
16. Put on some new gloves and repeat 10-15 above for the other elevator.

Set both elevators and both trim tabs aside and call it a good day. 

04/03/07  -  2 hours

Step 11.   Remove the clecos after allowing the tank sealant to cure (I gave it 3 days at 60 degrees constant temperature inside the hanger). 

Using a #40 drill, spin the drill in each hole with your fingers.  This is pretty effective in cleaning out the tank sealant. 

04/07/07  - 30 minutes

Step 12.  Time to rivet together the trailing edge.  It's amazing how much one learns from the trailing edge of the rudder to now.  Riveting skills are much better.  Knowledge of how much to turn down the rivet gun, the proper number of gun taps to give the rivet to set it half way, all add up to an easy, error free, curve free trailing edge, that goes together suprisingly quickly. 

Here are my steps: 

1. Insert all the 426 3-3.5 rivets from the top of the skin and hold them in place with rivet tape. 
2. Put the back rivet plate down on the workbench surrounded by hard board.  Shim the plate to match the hard board thickness. 
3. Fix up some weights to keep the elevator hard and fast against the rivet plate and hard board.  I just took two plastic tubs and threw in a bunch of never used tools that I've been carrying around for years. 
4. Randomly (or pseudo-randomly) number each of the rivets, but be sure to make the #1 rivet in the middle. 
5. Set, half way, the middle rivet and one to either side about 6 to 10 rivets away.  This will hold things in place as you begin. 
6. Following the numbered sequence, set each rivet about three quarters the way down.  Begin with the back rivet set parallel to the rivet shaft, but then half way through your burst, tilt the gun towards you to end up mimicing the slope of the elevator skin.  Don't set the rivet all the way. 
7. Once all the rivets have been almost set, turn the elevator over and number, in the same pseudo-random manner, all of the rivets.  Weight the elevator down as you did on the other side.  You can leave the rivet tape on or take it off.  I left it on.  Helps protect the skin. 
8. Change out your rivet set from a back rivet to a mushroom. 
9. Finish the back riveting of all the rivets following the numberical sequence. 
10. Turn the elevator back over and run your finger down the row of rivets.  You'll probably find one or two that didn't quite set.  Give these a final burst. 

The first time I went through this I kept looking at the edge to see if it was bending.  Nothing but straight.  So I did the second one without looking.  Came out just as straight. 

02/07/07 - 2 hours