Step 1.   Cleco the E-920 spar back in place.  Then place a block over each end to put pressure on the close out tabs so when you match drill the two holes to a #30, they are correctly aligned.  Believe them.  They know what they are talking about.   

02/11/07  -  30 minutes

Step 2.   After removing the clamp blocks, take a sharpie and draw a line under the E-920 as shown in the plans.  You are going to use this line as a reference to make the 15 degree bend.  Make yourself a wedge out of cardboard or stiff paper that is 15 degrees so that after making the bend you can check it out using a wedge block as your reference baseline.  In this operation, all you need do is make sure that the bend is at least 15 degrees.  If it's 16 or 17, not too worry.  Of course, remove the spar before making the bend.  You might be tempted to bend with the spar in place.  Note, however, even though every hole is clecoed, there is too much movement of the skin when you try to do that.  It won't get you a clean bend, so take the spar out and use either a hand seamer or rig up some type of hard edge that goes down the line securely.  I tried both and the hand searmer is fine.    

02/11/07  -  1 hour

Step 3.   Fabricate the E-917/E-918 and the corresponding E-1017/E-1018 trim tab horns by cutting off the extra aluminum.  Make sure your edge distance is correct.  It's about a 1/4 inch.  Once you do one, it's easy to use that as a pattern for the others.  Deburr the edges.   

02/11/07  -  1 hour

Step 4 & 5.   Cleco these to their respective skins as shown and final drill or ream the holes to a #40. 

Then, disassemble the elevators, marking where things go for reassembly.  Finally, make sure all holes and skins are deburred. 

02/11/07  -  30 minutes

Step 6.   Dimple time.  Do the skins and the trim tab horns.  Then do the bottom flange of the E-920 spars.  However, for the top you have to machine countersink in order for the hinge to lay flat.   

02/11/07 & 02/24/07   -  2 hours

Step 7.   Take off all blue plastic and mask the area that's been scuffed up for the foam ribs to get the skins ready for priming.  However, don't put the masking tape on until after you clean the aluminum with alumiprep or however you're going to do it.  

I have primed, and now am back to the elevators (Page 9-10), riveting those together.  

02/24/07  -  30 minutes

Step 8.   Rivet the trim tab horns and the bottom flange of the E-920 trim tab spar to the trim tab skins.  

03/31/07  -  2 hours

Steps 9 & 10.   As described on Page 14, apply tank sealant to the foam ribs, place them inside the tabs where they belong, and apply pressure with the clamp blocks.  Cleco the top flange of the spar to the skins. 

Then rivet the sides of the trim tabs using blind rivets. 

Set everything aside to cure. 

04/03/07  -  30 minutes