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Step 1. Deburr the edges of the HS-1002, and the holes, as well. 08/29/05 - 2 hours |
Step 2. Snug the HS-1013 spar caps in place. Make a mark on the flange 1/4" in to match that up with the 33rd hole in the spar flange (don't you just love the the precision! It works!). Clamp everything down after checking it twice, and drill the holes with a #30 as indicated. Just make sure the spar caps are tight against the flange as you go, so use plenty of clecos and careful that aluminum flakes don't wedge behind it. Once that is done, disassemble and clean off any debris left over from the drilling. Clamp it back on and do the 3/32" holes along the spar flange. Make sure the spar cap is fitting tightly before you start. Do this for both spar caps. 09/11/05 - 2 hours |
Step 3. Deburr and smooth and straighten (if very curved) the HS-1007 front spar doubler. Now is the time to also deburr and smooth the HS-1008 L & R attachment brackets (unless you've bought them already made up). 09/18/05 - 1 hour |
Step 4. First, cleco the HS-1008 pieces to the appropriate hole in the doubler/spar. Then grab a scrap piece of angle, or something flat and stiff, and clamp the HS-1008 front spar attachments to it. This will square them up. When everything is ready, drill one of the #30 holes from the HS-1007 into the HS-1008 pieces. Cleco this. Move onto the next hole. Cleco, etc. 09/18/05 - 1 1/2 hours |
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Step 6. Machine countersink the 8 holes indicated for 1/8" flush rivets. This in the HS-1007. Step 7. Final drill the middle 9 holes as indicated on the flange of the HS-1002, both sides, with a #40, then countersink these for 3/32". Step 8. Disassemble, deburr and prime! Don't forget to mark things. 09/19/05 & 09/24/05 - 2 hours |
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