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Step 2. Cleco the rear spar assembly to the inspar ribs and drill out the #30 holes to final. |
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Step 3. Cleco the HS-1016 stringer web into place and match drill the holes common to the stringers and stringer web with a #30. You'll have to get or borrow or use your angled drill attachment. Also final drill the 4 holes as specified. |
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Steps 5 & 6. Make sure you don't drill out the fairing screw holes that are shown on pp. 8-14. Mark the parts and disassemble and deburr. I find this is where the Cogsdill tool earns it's keep! Now, here's one thing I discovered, for those of you who like to remove a strip of plastic that sits on top of a rivet line, leaving the majority of plastic on to protect the alclad. Do the deed while the skins are still clecoed to the frame. It is so much easier (at least for the outside of the skins) to do it at this time. 10/27/05 - 2 hours |
Step 7. Dimple the skins and the rib flanges for the exterior rivets. Watch out that you don't dimple what the instructions call out! 10/15/05 - 3 hours |
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Step 8. Machine countersink the appropriate holes on the front and rear spars and the stringers. Here is where I got into trouble because I didn't yet have my drill press working and tried to do these by hand. Some of the holes were countersunk too shallow, some were actually not done! This later led to problems riveting the skins tight to the spars. If you want to read all about it, go to the Problems section. 10/15/05 - 3 hours |
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