Step 1.   Seven more steps to get this finished.  The first is to rivet the HS-904 inspar ribs onto the HS-1002 front spar web, both sides.  Nothing hard here. 

10/22/05  -  30 minutes   

Step 2.   A warning.  If you have mounted your V-blocks holding the HS onto the EAA-Tables, then you might want to get a simple step stool.  There are some awkward angles that can wear on you after awhile. 

Rivet the HS-1001 skins to the flanges of the front spar assembly, using the rivets called out on 8-14.  Where the instructions say to be sure "to capture the flanges of the inspar ribs where they joggle under the flanges of the front spar assembly," they fail to mention that the rivets at this location are too short.  You might want to go up one size and use a rivet cutter, if necessary.   

10/23/05  -  2 hours, I think

Step 3.   Remember that front is, in this case, down!  Directionally challenged people, such as I, start flying backwards.  Anyway, start at the front and rivet the skins to the HS-1004 flanges, but only up to the HS-1014 and HS-1015 stringers.  Use lots of clecos, because by now you have sufficient, right! 

10/25/05  -  2 hours, I think

Step 4.   Figure out which way you want to do this and then be consistent.  I started riveting the skins to the HS-1014 and HS-1015 stringers from the outside HS-1004 inward.  Again, this may be a holdover from the days before matched holes, but I always get this feeling that I'm helping prevent wrinkles.  Probably not, but it does give one a plan of action. 

Be prepared to do a great deal of "blind" bucking here.  The bucking bars I found did the best job still had enough mass to work well while still being short. 

One way to approach this is to get a feel for locating the rivet with your fingers, positioning the bar in its middle, again with only touch, holding the rivet in place with the rivet set, trying to make sure the bar isn't going to hit something else (but it will, and not to fret), then giving a couple taps from the gun to start you off, followed by a normal number of hammers.  Get a mechanic's mirror so you can check the set until you get used to it by feel.   

10/26/05  -  4 hours, I think

Step 5.   Once you get past the 4th step, Step 5 makes you feel like you're a pro!  Simply and easily, since you're so good by now, rivet the skins to the HS-904 inspar ribs.  You can actually see what you're doing! And, you can use your favorite and most comfortable bucking bar.  Just remember to make sure the rivets will be long enough at those intersections.     

Once this is done, don't forget to grab the scotch brite and primer.  Go over all the scratches you've made and prime before closing it up. 

10/26/05  -  2 hours, I think

Step 6.   Very deceptive here.  Cleco the rear spar assembly into position, then rivet it to the inspar ribs, etc.  Do this in this order:  first cleco the rear spar assembly to the ribs and then to the skins. The skin holes probably won't line up with the ones in the spar assembly, and that's because it's been sucked down a little too far.  Best to cleco the spar assembly to the skins first, then to the ribs.  Then, having drawn the rib flanges up to meet the assembly, go ahead with this step. 

I do not have a pneumatic blind rivet squeezer, but wish I did.  Time to climb up onto the EAA tables to get better leverage.  Band-Aids for knuckles standing by. 

Don't install the snap bushings yet.  Wait until the vibration is done.  Install them last, along with your choice of "glue." 

10/27/05  -  4 hours, I think

Step 7.   This step is so cool!  Get the camera!  Use every cleco in the shop; it just looks neat to have them all filled and then watch them disappear!  But, break out the Motrin.  Lots of back pain after this was done.  Just odd angles.  Best to get the HS down and on a lower surface so the activity is just slightly lower than your shoulders. 

Now put in the snap bushings, if you want, and you're done for now. 

10/28/05  -  3 hours, I think