Step 1.    Cleco the R-1012 counterbalance rib to the R-1002 spar and drill the two holes with a #30, as instructed.  Make note that the rib goes in the holes beneath those that hold the R1010G.  

06/17/05  -  20 minutes

Step 2.    Cleco together the R-1003A and R-1003B parts to form the top rib, and, except for the spar attachment holes, final drill common holes.  #30 drill.  Then cleco the rib to the spar and final drill those holes.  

06/19/05  -  45 minutes

Step 3.     Deburrrrrrrr edges of the skins.  Refer to the techniques section for my thoughts on this.  Or, actually, Dan Buena's thoughts on this.  Then cleco one of the skins to the rib structure. 

06/20/05  -  2 hours

Step 4.     Unfortunately, I wasn't taking as many pictures during this time.  Not sure why.  But, cleco the R-1006 trailing edge to the one of the skins.  It extends a little from the skins, so mark this and file it off so it matches the skin.  Easy to do.  Then, after this is finished, cleco it back to the skin as directed.   

06/21/05  -  45 minutes

Step 5.    Cleco the second skin onto the skeleton and trailing edge  

06/21/05  -  30 minutes

Step 6.     Final drill all the holes common to the R-1001 skins and skeleton, using a #40.  Drill from middle out when drilling into the spar and trailing edge. 

Note that when drilling into the trailing edge, drill perpendicular to the chord line of the rudder.  There are several suggestions as to how to do this.  I simple sat the unit up as shown in the picture, which places the chord perpendicular the table.   Flip a T 180 degrees in your head.  The table is the bottom and the chord is pointing straight up.  Now, all you have to do is drill perpendicular to the vertical and you have it.  I mounted a level onto the drill just to make sure. 

06/22/05  -  3 hours

Steps 7 & 8.       Remove the skins and mark as L and R.  Then put a slight bend in the trailing edge of each skin so they will lie flat on the R-1006 trailing edge.  Do this with a seam roller that you can get from the supply houses.  I use one from Avery. 

07/09/05  -  30 minutes

Steps 9 & 10.     Remove the reinforcement plates, marking them so you can put them back exactly as they were clecoed on. 

Then disassemble everything and deburr all holes and edges. 

07/09/05  -  2 hours

Steps 11 & 12.  Dimple the holes in the skins, ribs, spar.  Machine counterskink the holes in the R-1006 trailing edge, perpendicular to the trailing edge face.  Therefore, if you're using a drill press, you'll need to construct some sort of jig to holed the face of the trailing edge flat (perpendicular to the bit). 

07/09/05  -  3 hours

Step 13.     Prime.  The bat wings in the picture are the skins hanging from the door, drying, after being prepped for priming. 

07/18/05  -  3 hours