Step 1.   Rivet the R-1010 shear clips into place with blind rivets.  

07/21/05  -  45 minutes

CAUTION:  Now is the time to stop if it's late in the day.  The next several steps need coordination, because of the tank sealant, if you go that route.  Many have not.   I did.  You don't have to use the tank sealant because it has no purpose other to hold things in place for final riveting.  

Using the tank sealant is easy.  What takes some thought is how you are going to do all the steps solo, if you don't have a helper.  I didn't.  So, warning, read these next steps through before continuing and figure out a plan if you're using the pro seal. 

07/23/05  -  3 hours     Steps 2 through 8 done on this day, taking this long. 

Step 2.   I obtained a small amount of tank sealant from Van's, the type that comes in a tube and can be ready mixed.  It's a waste because you don't use much, but it's convenient. 

Mix according to directions and put on a thin coat on the surfaces of the R-1006 trailing edge, then cleco the edge to one of the skins as shown. 

Step 3.     Position the left skin over the right, as shown.  Also, make sure the stiffeners are oriented according to the picture and plans.  Cleco the bottom of the skin to the R-1004 bottom rib and capture the left skin with the bottom cleco in the trailing edge.  I did a dry run of this before doing it for real with the tank sealant, and I'm glad I did. 

Step 4.     Roll back the left skin so that the aft end of the bottom stiffeners can be riveted.  Only rivet the forward hole with the blind rivet called out. 

Then join the forward end of the stiffener to the R-1010A shear clip with two blind rivets. 

Note that since I had no helper, I used the hanger door to lift and lower the assembly.  It worked amazingly well.  The ability to raise and lower by small amounts was invaluable. 

Steps 5 & 6.   Making sure he stiffeners are positioned correctly, repeat setting the shear clips as you roll the skin down, one stiffener at a time.  As you go, capture the left skin with clecos placed in the trailing edge.   When you get to the top, check that the R-1003 halves fit correctly:  B on top of A. 

Cleco the rest of the holes in the trailing edge and wipe away any tank sealant.  Look for gaps in the trailing edge, where the skins meet.  Squeeze out any globs of tank sealant. 

All of this is easy to do!  Just move along at a nice steady pace and don't worry too much about the tank sealant setting.  It's got about a two hour working time at normal temperatures. 

Step 7.  Rivet the R-1004 bottom rib flange to the left skin.  Don't worry about the last hole.  I still haven't gotten this one to work yet using the blind rivet called for.  I'll figure it out one day. 

Step 8.     Finally, lay the rudder on a flat table top and put a 2x6 on top, clecos hanging over the edge.  The picture shows books for weight and 3 2x4 studs.  I ended up removing this and using a single 2x6 with lead weight.  Proved to be more stable. 

Cure for two days.  Works just fine.