I do apologize that I don't have any pictures of what has to be the most important and often times difficult set of steps, having to do with the riveting of the trailing edge.  So, you will need to go elsewhere for this. 

There are two thoughts on how to do the trailing edge riveting.  One is to back rivet the trailing edge on a long steel flat that you buy and smooth out and somehow make fast to the worktable edge.  The other is to go with the instructions, which is what I did.  Several builders have had good success with no tank sealant and using the back rivet technique, which I might do for the other, similar operations on such trailing edges as the ailerons and flaps.

I did have trouble. The last 1/8 of the trailing edge started to bow.  Here are my notes to the Matronics list: 

"...I have been sweating the "beware causing the rudder trailing edge to hook," and sure enough I think I've got a hook. I randomized setting the rivets, I looked at the leading edge repeatedly (but I did this by standing the rudder upright and taking steps back to eyeball it; I also used a straightedge along the edge), but when I finally sighted down the edge after setting all the rivets on one side, there was a slight "hook" at the top.

"I still have to set the rivets from the other side with the mushroom set. Before I do this, anyone have any suggestions as to how to work the slight bend out? I don't even know if what I see as a "hook" is worth mentioning, but I think it is. "

I asked Van's what to do, and this was their reply:

Getting a slight bend in the trailing edge is only an esthetic thing not an aerodynamic thing. If the bend is slight, I would leave it alone. You will do more harm than good drilling out the rivets and breaking loose the tank sealant. It may get straighter when you finish riveting. If it doesn't and you can live with a slight bow, just move on.  

After listening to the replies on the Matronics list and to Van's advice, I went ahead and was able to straighten it out.  Here is what I wrote to the list in case others had a similar problem: 

Well, long story short, the trailing edge of the rudder is now straight.

For those who have not yet gotten to the rudder or who might run across this on other trailing edges, don't sweat it as much as I did. It's pretty easy to straighten out.

First of all, my bow was at the top of the rudder. Laying a yard long straight edge on the side of the rudder from where the bow turned away, there was a 3/16 to 1/4 inch gap between the edge of the rule and the edge of the rudder. The bow in the trailing edge actually began 10 rivets down the rudder from the top. I placed a mark on that rivet and set up the mushroom rivet set to do the final rivet setting per the plans. I began three rivets down from the mark, the 13th or 14th rivet down from the top, setting each rivet and working my way up to the top, not skipping around at all. The intent was to move up the row of rivets until the edge straightened out, if it did, and only then begin random setting.

It worked just fine. After setting about five rivets the bow was almost gone. One more rivet did the trick. I then set the rest of the rivets in a pseudo random fashion, checking the edge every fifth rivet.

My advice to those moving towards this part of the plans is to check out how the folks were able to build their trailing edge using a long piece of angle iron as a back rivet plate for the entire edge. Plus I'd alternate the direction of the rivets. That has got to help keep the forces balanced. I liked using the tank sealant, but it does slow you down while it dries. Of course there are so many other things to do that you can easily put the rudder aside for two days.

So, for what it's worth, here are the official steps, sans photos.

Step 1.  Insert rivets into the trailing leading edge holes, tape rivets and flip rudder over.  Support the rudder so it is flat against the back riveting plate.  Weight the rudder down so it stays put. 

Back rivet every 10th rivet just enough to lock it in.  Don't set the rivets fully. 

Back rivet, randomly, but don't set the rivets all the way.  Then rivet as per instructions to set the rivets fully, again randomly.  Watch for a bow!   Good luck!

08/01/05  -  2 hours

Step 2.    Roll the leading edge of the skins using two different diameter plastic pipe.  One 1 1/4" and one smaller.  You'll figure it out.  Just use good old duct tape to attach the pipe to the skins.  Works okay.  Some, including myself, go to the trouble of clecoing the skin to the pipe.  Duct tape works just as well. 

After rolling, make a slight bend in the edges.  Here I think I over bent.  Anyway, cleco the edges and drill out with a #30.  Rivet the two together with the blind rivets called out. 

08/22/05  -  2 hours

Steps 3 & 4.  Cleco the skins to the 3 forward holes in the side flanges of the R-1003 and R-1012. 

Clamp the counterbalance weight to the ribs as described and match drill the two holes of the weight into the flanges of the ribs with a #19.

Then secure the weight with some #8 screws so you can bend the edges in the next step.

08/25/05  -  30 minutes

Step 5.   Bend the skins around the counterbalance wright enough to leave a crease, the remove the weight. 

08/25/05  -  15 minutes

Step 6.   Clamp the skins along the crease as shown, using two blocks of wood and the C-clamps.  BUT!  Do not put the blocks on the crease.  Move them back about 1/8" or even 1/4".  The reason is that if you do it at the crease, and bend at the crease, then you will have to do what I had to do, and that is shave off the edges of the lead weight to get it to fit. 

08/25/05  -  1 hour