Steps 2 & 3.   Now place the C, D & E j-channels as you did for the other side, cleco the skin on and have at it.  You need to drill out all those holes.  Nice to have all those silver clecos handy! 

I needed help to keep the j-channels in line.  One thing you can do, which I finally figured out, is to move one of your EAA-1000 tables underneath the project, given that you have made the 42" high saw horses.  You can see the table's top in the picture, between the two sawhorses.  This gives a great platform, nice and stable, to gain access to j-channles as you drill, so you can hold them in place.  Still awkward to do by yourself, so get some help. 

02/11/06  -  2 hours    Needed help

Steps 4 & 5.   Cut the F-1055 into left and right pieces and cleco in place.   I clamped it to the vise and used the Dremel once again.  I like that method.  Of course, clean up the edges. 

02/12/06  -  30 minutes    Dremel

Steps 6.   I made the F-1056 good enough to work, but be careful when you cut to leave enough extra so you can clean up the edges to your measure line.  I went over a slight bit on one side, but after looking at it decided I had enough material left on that end to have it all work out.  The picture is a little odd and may make you pause.  Cut the entire piece to 4 1/2 inches to begin with.  Smooth out the cut and get it to the 4 3/8" mark.  Then on one of the outside edges, center a measurement that gives you 4 1/8".  Draw lines from the outside edges into the bend that are 90 degrees.  That'll give you the place to mark from the bend to the outside end of the piece on the longer edge.  Cut away the material OUTSIDE the line so you have enough left to deburr and clean up. 

02/12/06  -  30 minutes   Dremel

Step 7.    This one baffled me.  I don't know why, but I had to let it sit for a day until I could come back to it with a new look.  Here's what I ended up doing.  I didn't have my long contractor type level handy, so the first thing was to place a piece of angle across the skin edges forward, as they want you to get a level reading both at the rear and front.  I place my smaller level there and it was level.  Then I went to the rear, near the F-1012 bulkhead, and it was not level.  When you twist the skins to get it level, it moves the F-1056 cock-eyed some.  You then move that back into place and look at the level again. 

What had me messed up was where the sawhorses were placed.  Yes, I did determine that the sawhorses were level, or nearly so.  I almost forgot that step!  Anyway, move your rear sawhorse under the space provided by the F-1079 skin extension.  It gives better support, which in turn allows you to get the darn thing level. 

Once level, drill away, as instructed.  DO NOT skip the step about deburring and blowing out the debris before drilling the #30 holes.  It does make a difference.  

02/19/06  -  30 minutes (once you get past the head scratching)