Steps 1 & 2.    You get to attach the bellcrank angles to the bellcrank ribs and drill out the rivet holes in common.  It's a little awkward to get this to happen, and since the structure is rather flimsy at this point, I used a cleco in every hole.  Do this for both sides and make a note to buy even more clecos. 

Note:  I found it difficult to get to the 4 holes in the F-1028 area, so will do these when it gets disassembled. 

02/22/06 - 30 minutes   

Step 3.  Make the F-1010B spacer. 

Have you ever had one of those nights when you stare at the plans and keep wondering why it is you cannot find the length of the part they want you to make?  I'm looking and looking and cannot find the length of the longer side of the F-1010B!  They give me the length of the shorter side and the amount to cut off of each end to make it short.............It really hurts, sometimes, the brain.  It's so small. 

02/22/06 - 45 minutes

Page 10-6 :: Step 1.   Now here I had to back track.  When I blew it on Step 1. of page 10-6 with one of the longerons, I picked up another piece from Van's, but hadn't gone back to complete the step.  I did so now and it all came out fine.  I also took a look at the other one and made some adjustments in the notch, it was too small. 

03/22/05 - 1 hour    Dead blow hammer, Dremel

Step 4.  Fit the F-1032 left and right longerons as shown.  You'll have to remove more clecos than you think to get this in without much struggle.  Note that I had to file down the notches in the ribs a bit to get the fit better.  It only takes a few minutes to do. 

When I cut did the second longeron, I didn't cut it to size first.  I polished up the end that I needed to measure from, did the measurements of 20 and 7 whatever inches, did all my drilling and cutting and bending, then fit it into the tailcone as directed.  I did some minor adjustment of maybe 1/64" to get it to make the break just perfectly by widening the notch a little, then went to the front of the tailcone and marked where the longeron should be cut to length.  It puts the first step at the last, and it really doesn't matter, I guess, but seems more logical. 

03-22-05 - 45 minutes

Step 5.  With some carpet tape, or in my case, some doubled over packing tape, stick the F-1010B spacer into place, as you can see in the picture above.

03-22-05  10 minutes

Step 6.  Cleco the aft deck and the doubler to the F-1011 bulkhead.  It helps to have the aft deck oriented with the tabs up and not down.  These things make a difference.  I thought, boy who designed this thing with the flange having nowhere to go?  As I said, the head is so small. 

03/23/06 - 15 minutes