Step 1.    The plans specify to make sure that the bend location in the longerons still matches that in the skins.  Believe this admonition.  The longerons do shift.  You can also tell by looking to see that the F-1011C pieces (things that stick up, in case you forgot) are still in the middle of the notch that you cut into the longerons.  Make sure that they fit in the middle and that the bend is where it is supposed to be, then take a cleco C-clamp, or something similar, and immobilize each longeron as best you can. 

Now find every clamp in your shop and follow the directions.  Look carefully at the plans and you'll see that the F-1014 does not fit over the edge of the side skin.  That tiny gap is where the apex of the longeron needs to be.  You will have to adjust your clamps a couple of times, and as you do, check back to see if the notch in each is still where it should be relative to the F-1011C's.  My left side longeron kept shifting on me, but I finally clamped it into submission.   

03/23/06 - 30 minutes   

Step 2.  Match drill the holes in the side skins into the longerons.  Note:  use a 3/32 bit, not a #40 at this time!!!!  Do not match drill any of the F-1014 holes at this time.  

The longerons are, indeed, thick, so my advice is to go down to the local hardware store and buy several more 3/32 bits.  You'll need a few.  Also, use Boelube.  Help quite a bit, actually. 

03/24/06 - 2.5 hours

Step 3.  In this step, do the holes on the vertical, essentially.  Except for the F-1006 Bulkhead holes (which I taped over with masking tape, just to be sure), drill out with a #40 bit or reamer all skin to frame and bulkheads. 

03/25/06 - 1 hour

Step 4.   There are some 3/32" holes in the F-1012 bulkhead web and just at the top of same that need to be taken to a #40. 

03/25/06 - 20 minutes

Step 5.  Ok.  Gently turn the assembly over.  In my case, find lower sawhorses and transfer from the tall to the short.  Get everything stable.  There was no one around to help, so this was more exciting at times than it should have been!  (The picture is of me trying to remember which hole I was to do next.)

Final drill the skins to frames and bulkhead holes, which means going across the skins.  Once these are done, then do the same to the long line of rivets on each side that are common to the side and bottom skins.   Note:  I also drilled out the holes holding the F-1029 L & R bellcrank ribs.  I wasn't sure if they meant these, but upon looking ahead, could not find a reason not to. 

03/25/06 - 1 hour