Jessen RV-10 Builder's Log
Keep It Simple; Keep It Safe
Home > Empennage > Tailcone
<<  Previous Page 10-13 Next  >>


Step 1.    You'll need to fabricate two pieces.  The first one, the F-1011D, in this step.  Use 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8" aluminum angle.  Make the first piece 7" and a little (to allow for smoothing the cut marks).  Cut to the shape shown and then mark for the 8 holes (1/8").  Use the drill press to finish off the holes. 

Then, put the blade back on the bandsaw and tune up the band saw.  Don't ask. 

04/08/06 - 1 hour    Bandsaw, drill press


Step 2.   Now do the second piece, labeled F-1012D.  This is much like the first one, but this time the piece of angle is cut 5" long and will have 5 holes. 

04/08/06 - 45 minutes     Bandsaw, drill press


The comment made just before Step 3, that the tailcone is torsionally rigid, is simply great, for this non-engineer.  I hope there will be more comments along the way about what is happening to the structure, why certain things are done thus and so, similar to this one.  After all, we are trying to learn more than just proving we can build one hell of a lego...

Step 3.   At any rate, double check that the line drawn down the F-1010B is still showing through the holes, which mine was, then proceed to drill out the holes with a #30.  There is a reminder to make sure you cleco.  I'm thinking someone at the prototype shop failed to do so and they had to redo the 1010B!  Makes me feel good to speculate that the pros screw up at times, too! 

04/09/06 - 20 minutes  


Step 4.  Take your step stool, your #30 drill bit and proceed to match-drill all the side holes of the F-1014 aft deck.  Make sure that you keep the drill square to the deck, which begins to slant, of course.  You'll need a 12" #30 when you get close to things. 

Once that is done, go back and drill out the two holes indicated (F-1010A) with a #12.  That bit can grab, so have a good hold as you let it go through those 1/8" longerons. 

04/09/06 - 45 minutes  


Step 5.  There are 4 1/8" holes and 2 3/32" holes in the F-1011B that need attention, namely drilling out to a #30 and #40 respectively. 

04/09/06 - 10 minutes  


Step 6.  Now here's where I think the brain again is too small.  I'm working away trying to make sure that the F-1011D is centered on top of the F-1011B, when it becomes clear that the D is cut to the shape of the B.  Just put it on top so it matches and clamp the thing to the F-1011C ears.  Why, then, didn't they simply tell you to match one part to the other.  Rather than all the measurement, one could have simply transferred the outline.  Whatever.  Drill out the 8 1/8" holes with a #30, then the two on the side with a #12. 

04/09/06 - 10 minutes  


Step 7.  Center the F-1012D as shown and clamp it so the front of the horizontal flange is edged up to the cutout.  Easy to do.  Then drill out the 5 holes to a #30.  And finish it off by using a #12 on the outer holes. 

Note:  Look closely at the holes.  Do you see tiny sharp ridges sticking up?  Go to the Techniches #2 page for an explanation. 

04/09/06 - 15 minutes  


<<  Previous Page 10-13 Next  >>