Step 1.    This is a simple page.  Goes rather quickly, as opposed to what's in store next.  First remove the two top skins and stiffeners. 

04/10/06 - 20 minutes

Step 2.  Position the seat belt anchors as shown (F-636).  I had to use some odd combination of cleco clamps to get things to stay and still allow the drill to do its thing without the chuck hitting a clamp. Drill out the holes with a #12 for both sides.   

04/10/06 - 40 minutes    

Step 3.   I skipped this step for now, since I haven't yet figured out which static source I'm going to go with, although it will probably not be with the Van's pop-rivet version.  The others look more substantial, and that's the only reason I've come up with at this time.  You can get one from Aircraft Spruce, Safeair, or Cleveland, as well as Van's.   Probably others, but these are the ones I know of to date.  I'll post my decision on the "products" page. 

Well, I decided on Cleveland, only because another builder had these and they looked just fine.  Of course I screwed up and made the hole too big.  I'm now going to be challenged on how I'll repair this so the unit will sit as required, proud of the skins by an exact amount.  I'll take some pictures after I calm down, and you'll get a write-up. 

Okay, I've thought about this and made some calls.  Here's the problem.  The top picture shows the correct 1/2" hole for the Cleveland static port, along with the 3 rivet holes.  The bottom picture shows the problem hole.  Note that it has been enlarged to 5/8".  Mike, at Cleveland, is worried that both should be the same size.  He's willing to mill to fit.  Another person has said they'd mill to fit, too.  My problem is that I've already gone ahead and drilled for the rivet holes for the 1/2 inch model.  This means that it would be difficult to enlarge the old hole to 5/8" to match the other.  A new skin is $95, which I could get, ream out the holes, deburr, dimple, etc.  Although expensive in both dollars and time, I may have to go this route. 

Epilog:  A RV-9A builder took one look and asked me what the fuss was about.  I explained all my fears and concerns.  He then positioned the Cleveland static port and declared no emergency.  He said that the rivets would be able to hold it in place, although they would not be the requisite distance from the edge of the hole, but since it wasn't structural, who'd care.  I could then fill in the gap with pro-seal or some type of epoxy, sand it down even with the skin, and it's be fine.  I decided to give it a try.  I positioned the static port in the center of the hole, taped it down, drilled the rivet holes, dimpled and riveted it on.  It worked just fine.  I'll fill in the gap when I'm finishing up, and I'll also make sure the tubing on the inside is supported in a way that does not place any stress on the static port.  The epoxy filler will help cement the port into place even further. 

Steps 4 & 5.  Drill out the 4 holes in the F-824B covers with a #28 bit.  (By the way, Harbor Freight sells a set of wire sized bits for a good price, if you haven't already gotten a set.  They aren't the best, but for the number of times you'll use most of the odd sizes, the set is a good value.) 

When you drill out the holes, make sure you have a solid backing to keep the aluminum from deforming.  A scrap of 2x4 worked fine.  These holes do not need to be match drilled, since they are not going to be riveted, so you can do them separately. 

Ream out the 8 nutplate holes to a #40.  

04/10/06 - 15 minutes