It's great to be past Page 10-16.  Hopefully this new page won't be as traumatic.  Seemed like everything I touched on 16 had a problem. 

Step 1.   The first thing to do is find the blasted F-635B spacer that goes between F-635A bellcrank cranks.  It's that little crappy piece of aluminum you see between the cranks. 

The instructions tell you that you're suppose to make the piece from a sheet of AS3-063.  Of course I thought I was supposed to cut to the size given, namely .500 x 1.4375.  (What's with the 1.4375?  Do I have a laser cutter nearby?)  I looked around the shop and measured all sheets in sight and just could not find it.  Almost ready to give up, I took one last look into the plastic bucket that holds odd pieces for the Tailcone.  At the bottom I find this little tiny unlabeled piece of aluminum that is already cut to the correct length and width, and is the correct thickness.  You don't have to make this from a sheet of anything.  You do have to drill the 1/8" hole, but that is not "making" the piece.  So, anyway, measure and drill the dang hole. 

Note in the second picture how many tools it takes to do this one tiny hole.  Not shown is the vise to hold when marking, the drill press for accurate positioning, grinder to hold the 3M deburring wheel, and the wheel itself.  Interesting. 

Step 2.   Cleco together the bellcrank unit, then match drill the holes as specified. Deburr when done. Nothing much here. Goes real fast.

09/26/06 - 20 minutes

Step 3.   Prime everything.   I should be able to get this all done by the weekend (yeah, right), and then the fun starts.

The first picture on the left below shows many of the smaller parts drying on the painting table after being washed with Dawn detergent.  I don't know if this is a necessary step or not, but at least they go into the Alumiprep clean.  I don't scratch them up with the Scotchbrite before emersion in the acid solution.  I was told that the PPG 1791 does its own etching, so why do it twice? 

The second picture shows some of the pieces drying on a clothes line strung across the hanger door opening.  These pieces have been soaked in the Alumiprep and rinsed thoroughly.  You know the acid solution has worked if the rinse water just sheets off of the aluminum and doesn't bead.  One of the skins actually had spots of beading when I rinsed it, so I trust this as a good indicator that you've either done the job or not. 

The third picture shows one way to prep the j-channels.  Take the long box that they were shipped in, put in some cheap drop cloth plastic (1 mil works), Alumiprep or equivalent, and you're in business.  The forth picture is simply the j-channels drying after spraying off the acid solution.  Once all the pieces are done I'll start spraying with the PPG 1791. 

You can see some of the primed parts below.  I was priming in bright sunlight, low in the sky.  That was hard to do.  Hard to see if I was covering correctly.  I did shoot an extra amount of the 1791 on the rivet lines, just in case.  It always takes me awhile to get the volume of primer and the air mixture to work properly.  I probably shoot too much primer, but that's because it is hard for me to tell that anything is going on.

09/28/06  -  All finished!  Got this done on 10/01/06.  10 hours total, including, washing, Alumiprep, priming.  

Step 4.   Rivet together the F-635 Elevator Bellcrank Assembly.  I'm not sure if it matters, but I put in one rivet, then moved two holes and put in another.  I figured, as one does when torquing down head bolts, that trying to balance out the forces might be of some benefit.  YMMV.  Some folks actually alternate shop and manufactured heads as they work their way around.  Might have some merit.  Looks weird. 

10/05/06  - 30 minutes

Step 5.   Take 8 K-1000-3 and rivet them as shown to the underside of the Bellcrank mount using AN426AD3-4 flush rivets.  Do the same for the 4 K1000-4, as shown.  I began by securing the nutplates using 1 cleco and one bolt, but that turned out to be overkill.  Works fine without the bolt, since the cleco is holding it on the one side and the rivet is aligning it on the other.  You need the bolt when you are drilling, but it's not needed when riveting.  

10/01/06  -  40 minutes

Step 6.   Snap the F-1036B battery channels into place.  Then take your no-hole yoke and rivet these using AN470D4-5.  I put the shop head inside the F-1036B.  Only way it really can go.

10/01/06  -  20 minutes