Step 1.   Using the components shown in the plans (F-1056, F-1012E, F-1012B, F-1012A), cleco everything together and then rivet as shown.  This is cool.  I don't know why.  It just is.  I like these sub-assemblies.  Don't forget to position the F-1056 properly.

Note:  I used the hand squeezer just because I wanted to have good control after a long layoff from building.  Plus these were easy rivets.  I also use the hand squeezer on edge rivets because I like the feel of it and the control.   

10/02/06  - 1 hour

Step 2.   This is an interesting, small puzzle.  What do you begin riveting first?  How do you get to the middle rivet of the F1011A? 

I started by clecoing all the pieces together.  Then I took various squeezer yolks to determine which would work, where.  For me, I ended up starting with the easist, namely the F-1011E, using a standard 3" yolk.  Worked fine. 

I then went to the F-1011A, but I did not rivet the one rivet that is common to the F-1011C.  I took on all but those two and the one in the very middle, using the same yolk.  I then switched to the longeron yolk to get to the middle rivet through the big hole in the middle.  You have to experiment with the size of the squeezer set that will allow you to get in there.  Even still, you will have to squeeze a little, adjust the set holder, squeeze some more, adjust, and so on until you get it.  Then you'll have to adjust the other way to get the pneumatic squeezer yolk out of there. 

I then did the rivets for the F-1011C.  Those were easily done.  Very satisfying. 

10/03/06  - 40 minutes

Step 3.  Rivet the nutplates onto the F-1011E.  Goes quick. 

10/03/06  -  10 minutes