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Steps 2 thru 7. Rivet the tailcone
together.
Since I'm working alone, back riveting is a must.
Also back riveting is easier and I think gives a more consistent rivet.
So, here are the steps I took (am taking) as I work my way through doing as
much back riveting as possible. Bruce Breckenridge, building right next
door, is coaching me on this, so most of the steps are his. I'll deviate
only slightly because his came out great. Bruce got his inspiration from Mike Howe and others. To have a community of builders who can share
knowledge is amazing. So, here goes....
- If you're going to back rivet, start with both skins on for structural
alignment and integrity, so do as they require, cleco together the whole enchilada.
- I started riveting the big bottom skin to the F-1047 stiffeners between
the F-1007 and F-1008 ribs. Start with the mid stiffener as it exits the
back of the F-1007. If you are using the standard back rivet plate that
you get from Avery or others, you can do 14 rivets at a time. You'll need
to remove some clecos on either side of the rivet plate to make room for it, but
it does fit nicely.
- Turn the entire tailcone on its side and insert the 14 426AD3-3.5 rivets and
tape over them to hold them in place. You can turn the tailcone easily by
yourself by picking up the front and rotating it using the tail section as the
fulcrum. It's great to have a table long enough, or two end to end.
- Then turn the tailcone back upright and position the plate so the tape is
centered. You will have all sorts of little pointy things coming out of holes
(cleco tips) that want to interfere, so use some packing material or 1/4"
foam or rug or whatever you can find to support the tailcone even with the plate,
but allowing the little pointy things to penetrate and not cause problems.
- Do NOT leave a gap between the plate and the skin. Make sure it's resting
nicely on the skin. A gap, even if you think you've pushed down, does not
a good back rivet make. It may also cause you some bulging aluminum if
you should squeeze the trigger before you are ready.
- Make sure the gun is straight up and down and the pressure is set the way you like it. Then, have fun!
- Do all the rivets on the bottom skin between the F-1007 and F-1008 ribs, each stiffener the same. I went from the F-1007 to the F-1008 for the center one, then did the same for the left, then again for the right. Why? It probably matters more on the side skins where oil canning might happen, but why not do it with this pan? I make sure there is a constant movement in one direction. So, in short, I have no clue, but it might just matter a tiny bit.
- Once you get all the F-1047's riveted to the big bottom skin, then pick a side and start on it. Just put in the rivets, tape them into place, roll the tailcone over onto the correct side and rivet away. I started and went in the same direction as I did for the bottom skin. Remember: Don't rivet the F-1032 longerons to the skins! And don't rivet any part of the F-1006 bulkhead, either! That includes the end rivets of the F-1074 stiffeners near the F-1006 bulkhead (check out the riveting diagram). Also, don't worry about getting into the back area behind the F-1010 rib. It'll be okay to leave it for now.
- Pick up all the rivets that you spilled on the floor because you were moving the tailcone and forgot they were behind it. (#$%^&*)
- Now, here's the stumper. You've got one skin's F-1047 stiffeners all riveted, in my case the right skin. Do you then rivet the ribs in place at this time? Because, if you can take off the opposite skin, it'd be easier to do. After taking the skin off and mulling this over for quite some time, I decided to keep the F-1047 stiffeners in place, along with the rear bottom skin, but left the left skin off, and then went ahead and riveted the ribs to the right skin down to the point where they make the turn. I did this for the F-1007, F-1008 and F1010. The F-1011 does not appear to be firm enough to fool with until the other skin is back on. The rear bottom skin is important to leave on because it adds rigidity to the F-1011. You'll see.
- Put the skin back on and rivet the F-1047 stiffeners to the skin.
- Follow this with riveting the F-1007, F-1008, and so on, all the way back to the F-1012, as stated in the plans.
- Rivet the edges of the F-1073 skins to the forward (big) bottom skin.
- Rivet the F-1079 in place.
- Finish with the remaining F-1055. For me it was the F-1055L.
- Stand back and admire. Don't look at the smilies. Ignore for now. Move on.
10/07/06 - Finished |
