Step 1.   Rivet K1000-3 nutplates to the F-1073 bellcrank rib angles.  Simple.  I used the vice to hold the rib angles and used the hand squeezer to do the riveting.   You could switch the steps around and rivet the nutplates after Step 2.  A few nutplates get slightly in the way of riveting, but it's not that bad. 

Step 2.  So, after riveting the nutplates to the rib angles, rivet these to the F-1029's, as described.  I switched from the hand squeezer to the pneumatic at this point.  Don't forget to NOT rivet the two front holes on the F-1029-R, as shown.  Some masking tape will do nicely as a reminder. 

10/10/06  -  40 minutes total

Step 3.   I tried to find a reason not to rivet the F-1029's to the large bottom skin as shown, thinking that these would be in the way for other things further into the tailcone.  But, not being able to come up with a good reason not to do riveting, I went for it. 

This is easy, but it sure helped that Bruce had an offset back rivet set that was about a foot long. See the picture under tools, here.  It also helps to do six rivets at a time, three per side, as you move the small back riveting plate steadily down the long axis of the F-1029. Much more control that way.

10/29/06  -  1 hour    Offset back rivet set. 

Step 4.   Rivet the F-1073 side skins to the longerons that lay underneath the F-1014 aft deck.  I used the hand squeezer for this.  Easy, fun to do.  Tape over the holes that are to be left alone, just to make sure.

10/27/06 - 1 hour

Step 5.   This is actually fun, too!  Build back up the aft end of the tailcone, namely the F-1014, F-1010B, F-1012D, F-1011D, F-1011B.  Using either the longeron or no-hole 4" yokes, rivet what you can reach.  I think there are 4 or 6 rivets that you can't get with either one of those yokes.  I started with the very aft 3 AN426 rivets that secures the F-1014 to the F-1012 and moved forward. 

You do have to leave the F-1009 frame for last, and don't forget to NOT RIVET the F-1011 pieces at this time.  I put them in because, well, because.  Probably best to leave them out.

Rivet away!  You can get away with using the longeron and no-hole yokes, shown to the left.  I think I only had to drive rivets in 4 or 6 places where these two couldn't reach. 

When you’ve got all the riveting done having to do with the F-1014, then attach the F-1009 to it and rivet that on.

10/29/06 - 2 hours