Jessen RV-10 Tailcone Page 23

Page 10-23

Note: The following is not in the manual. This is my first modification away from the plans.

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Step A. Before closing up the top skin, I decided I wanted to install, or at least cut and fit, some angle across the tailcone at the longeron level that could be used to hold an AHRS or magnetometer. (For a quick look at such a "shelf," see Tim Olson's site - here.) So the first thing I did was measure the width of the span, figuring that I'd place my holes with edge distances similar to the holes for the shoulder harness anchors.

Step B. I then cut some left over longeron material to length and worked on the ends until they were the right shape to fit nicely under the F-1032's.

Step C. Once the fit was okay, I used clamping clecos to hold them in place and drilled a 3/32" hole through both the F-1032 and the new pieces. I moved up drill sizes until I reached a #12. Deburring followed the drilling, along with final fitting.

If I end up not hanging an AHRS or magnetometer onto these new cross members, at least they are there if I want to hang a sling to hold fishing poles, or something similar. The only issue that might come up is after I have closed the Tailcone with the top skin. Putting the skin on might pull the sides in just a hair, and thus my bolt holes may not be just right. We'll see.

For those who might feel the new holes could compromise the longerons, Van's engineering gave the okay.

10/30/06 - 2 hours working, but 4 hours total

Note: I did steps 1 & 2 after steps 3 & 4, but only because the latter are easy and I needed something easy.

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Step 1. Lay the j-stiffeners for the top into place. Why this gets its own step, I have no idea.

11/02/06 - 10 minutes

Step 2. First cleco the F-1075 skin back into place. In my case, I first put the clecos on the outside in order to get the skin to form to the ribs. I then moved all the clecos to the inside, a few at a time. I had to do this in order to back rivet the top skin on, as I had to do with the bottom and side skins. I also clecoed every dang hole so that I knew everything was secured. So, here is the order I used. Your mileage may differ, but this did work.

I began by riveting each of the three j-channels just forward of the F-1008 rib, and moved forward from there. The backrivet steel plate from Avery can accomodate 3 rivets at a time in each j-channel, if laid perpendicular to the center axis of the tailcone (nice and stable this way). Thus you can do 9 rivets at a time. (Don't forget to leave the F-1007 alone. No riveting for this at this time.)
Once finished with these rivets, complete the center j-channel aft of the F-1008 rib.
Now I made use of the Breckenridge method to complete the F-1008, riveting from the center outward to the edges.
Once this was done I then riveted the skin edges to the longerons and side skins, working from the F-1008 forward to the F-1007, but leaving the last rivet hole open at the F-1007. I did 4 rivets at a time, only because I didn't like the way the skin kept trying to pull away. I figured I could get away with 4, and it worked fine.
After these sides were done, I went aft and secured the top skin to the F-1009. You'll have to buck these.
Then I finished off the sides, working back from the F-1008. My arms weren't long enough, so I must admit I asked for help to get the last 10 or so.

I have a discussion about the technuique and my opinion of it located here. In short, yes, it does produce a nice finish on the outside, and, yes, it can be done by yourself, and this is good news for those building alone, but...it could have been done faster and with as high a quality if you got yourself a partner and had at it. Don't be hesitant to ask for help. If I had it to do over again, no way would I take this route.

10/14/06 - 8+ hours

Step 3. Attach the F-635 to the F-1037A bellcrank angles. Just slip the lower part of the F-635 into the vise, with the angles resting on the padded vise jaws and torque it down.

10/14/06 - 10 minutes

Step 4. Bolt the bellcrank assembly to the F-1035 as shown in the plans. Tighten the bolts in a random pattern until the angles are flat against the F-1035, then switch the torque wrench.

10/14/06 - 20 minutes