09-21-06:  Primers and Priming  

First of all, let's get one thing clear, hear and now, no bones about it, no two ways about it, no lie, no way, and that is (hell, I can't remember what it was....oh, yeah) NO ONE KNOWS ANYTHING ABOUT PRIMERS!  At least most RV builders of the ordinary type. 

If you have someone say to you, directly or over the airways, "I use such-n-so primer and have no complaints," or, "I use this-n-that primer and it works for me," then do yourself a favor and run the other way. 

A primer decision is a religious experience for most.  That is to say, it is often based on belief or faith.  Nothing wrong with that if you keep it to yourself, but it in no way qualifies one to give advice about priming.  If you have not tested the primer you are using, then how can you say it works?  How? 

Well, there are a couple of things that are reasonable to say: 

• If you want to prime and want to have it easy and fast, and don't mind extra expense, use a rattle can self etching primer, such as the SW 988. 
• If you want your skins to be sealed against moisture, and don't mind additional weight and effort, use an epoxy primer, such as the AZKO type.
• If you want to believe in the tried and tested, don't mind some extra work and mess, alodine your bird like folks in the air force and airlines have been doing forever.
• If you want to make sure your finish paint is compatible with your primer, make sure you use the right primer for the right paint.  I'm using PPG 1791 in part because I'm planning to go the PPG route, but I'm not painting the inside of my wings, so who cares anyway.  Duh. 
• If you believe that the thin coat of pure aluminum is all that's needed, prime only where two surfaces meet, such as rivet lines, and move on, ala Dan Checkoway and a bunch of others who've decided that priming is a waste of time. 
• If you believe you must prime in order for the plane to have a higher resale value, well, then do so, but don't think that it'll make your plane have that much of a higher resale value. 
• If you live on the Florida coast, yes, prime with AZKO or alodine. 
• If you live in Arizona, spend your money on air conditioning. 
• If you really want to decide which is best, then get some scrap pieces and several types of primer and test them.  One such effort by Mark Phillips (see sidebar) came up with the SW 988 as the winner.  Was it the type of test that could be written up in Science?  No.  But it was much more demonstrable than anything I usually read online. 

I'm using PPG 1791 because Randy Debauw, who has a hanger next to mine, talked myself and Bruce Breckenridge into it.  Since both Bruce and I are building RV-10's side-by-side, we tend to use some of the same strategies.  It helps when one of us runs out of something.  So, when I need more 1791 or Alumiprep, I go next door and take some off of Bruce's shelf.  Simple.  (Hope he doesn't discover my stealth strategy.)  Randy, in the meantime is flying the heck out of his plane, which will probably last longer than he will, or the person he sells/gives it to.  (Note I said probably.  How do I know?)  And that was part of Randy's strategy.  Get it done.  The primer probably helps.  At least if it doesn't get water trapped between its layer and the aluminum coating.  Oh, gosh!  Another worry! 

In short, first decide if you're going to prime.  Then, decide which primer based on convenience, next door neighbors, color, clean up, application technique, if you really are getting a salt bath via the ocean every day, it passes the fingernail scratch test, dries quickly, and so on.  Just don't pick one because someone said, "works for me." 

Mark Phillips, shown below with his alter ego (note the reflection), is an RV-6A builder who actually did some testing. You can read about it here.

Mark did some TESTING and concluded that the SW 988 survived his tortures the best.  Mark writes: 

"Test summary would conclude that all products (tested) would likely do the job, but for my money, the SW 988 is what I will be using on the new project ....  It is really tough and shows NO signs of corrosion in the salt bath."

I stand convinced that the majority of folks buy wines because of the nice label, buy shampoos because of the smell, and, unless you're a Mark Phillips, choose a primer just because.  Betcha I'm right.  Works for me. 

05-16-06:   An Approach to Building Decision Making  

There recently was a discussion that developed on the Matronics list that piqued my interest.  Basically, a potential builder in NZ was asking the collective wisdom about his approach to planning for an RV-10.  He listed everything from QB to LED running lights, engine to avionics, and wanted to know what folks thought about his decision making.  Needless to say, the responses were varied. 

Of the several good responses that developed, Tim Olson made several summary observations that I thought worth sharing on this page.  With his permission, I've captured them here, slightly edited.  What I like about his explanation is that most of us spend a large amount of time trying to design and/or make the perfect airplane, and of course, that's half the fun.  But beyond the educational and beyond the chest puffing exercise of having the best, these planes are going to be so good that the basics are just fine.  Up to you and to me, of course, how to approach the build.  I'm leaning more and more towards basic because I just want to get it flying.  I watch Randy DeBauw fly and smile at his good fortune, anxious that I might join him soon.  Keep it simple; keep it safe. 

Alright, Mr. Olson, the stage is yours........

= = = = =

"I think the reason you're not getting super-specific replies is that most of the items aren't relevant to you enjoying your RV-10, and could go any number of ways and still be "right".  You're really the only one who knows what's right for you.

On the desire to get a QB:  "RV-10 QB: Nice, but you're going to pay more...and you said you're kind of on a budget. With 2 people, full-time, you probably can't build it in 1300 hours, but doing a slow build may only take you 3 months extra or possibly even less, if you're truly building full time.

On where to get various items:  "Sure, get a prop, FWF Kit, Wiring harness and antennas from Vans. Get the antennas anywhere and you're find.

On the engine choice:  "I know people love their engine companies, but really, you're going to be happy with an IO-540 with or without the cold air induction and James cowl. They may be nice, but necessary....certainly not. Your RV-10 will fly beautifully either way, and I would doubt that if the plane is "safe" to take off your short field with the Cold Air induction, that it would be "unsafe" without it....if it is, then you're crazy to be cutting it that close anyway.

On thinking to far in advance:  "The small things, like LED's, are too minor to even worry about. Just pick those things while you build, and don't buy everything immediately....just by being part of the online building community you'll have bits of head-turning info that show up regularly that will affect your choices.

On a strategy to panel building:  "As for panels, if you're looking to save money, the Lancair panel will not save you any, and considering you want it built in a minimal timeframe, you would do best if you plan to have them build it to pay for it up front at the time you buy your tail kit, because yes, their lead time is probably that long.  Figure a full year these days, and that's if they don't screw you on delivery as is being so common with their customers. 

On a strategy to a VFR panel:  "You mentioned VFR, but then wanting Blue Mountain for HITS. Seems contradictory. If you want some nice looking stuff that will do more than VFR, you can choose Blue Mountain, or save even more and buy Rob Hickman's stuff, which looks very good. Grand Rapids is currently about as good as you can get for functionality on a budget, but the graphics don't hold a candle to the AFS stuff.   Again though, especially going VFR only, there isn't too much of a way to go wrong on your panel, and the Cheltons would certainly be overkill if you're on a tighter budget, especially if VFR.

In summary:  "All the other stuff is minor as well. Use whatever you feel the best about paying for. Your choices certainly aren't bad ones. It's going to be impossible to have any one concept "blessed" as perfect, because perfect has many different meanings to everyone. If it feels right for you, it probably is."

Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying

05-09-06:   Build time  

At first I was against tracking the time it took me to build.  My argument was that, "you’ll get done when you get done."  If it’s one year or ten, then that’s how long it took you.   Then I started tracking the time for each step, mainly because I saw everyone else doing it and figured it might be important group data.   Maybe it will help when someone new comes on the list and asks the question about how long one of these things takes to build.  You can answer that question in terms of hours or months or years, but at least you have it recorded and thus can make a statement.

Now I’m back to “who cares.”   If that person, as one was when he visited my shop, is worried how long it would take to build (He didn’t want to spend time building; he wanted to fly. Oh my!), then the suggestion is always, go buy a Cirrus or Columbia and have done with it.

There’s one person, I believe, who built a -10 in under a year.   Randy DeBauw built his under a handicap (being one of the first builders he was perpetually in discover mode), and still finished in, what, 18 months?   Given what he knows today, he could cut several months off that, and that was a slow build.   He did have help, and I believe that his panel was pre-built, but anyone who is going to finish under two years will either be going quick build, have the panel professionally built, or has help in the shop. There is another fellow in my area who finished a QB RV-9A in 9 months.  These planes go together with surprising ease if you know what you are doing.

I got to thinking about this notion of a build hour.   A build hour is not the same as a clock hour.   I track my build time in hours, as do most, but I do not pay much attention to the number of minutes in that hour.   I know one RV-7 builder who practically uses a stop watch, and knows to the minute how much time it takes to finish a task.   No.   Not for me.   My way of tracking the time it takes to finish a Step is to recognize that I’m in the shop about 2 hours at a time on week nights, and about 4 to 6 hours on weekends, and to often estimate build time based on that loose knowledge of shop time.

When I finish a Step, and if I remember, I immediately write down the approximate actual working time on my plans, along with a check mark indicating the Step is finished, a note about anything of importance, and the date.   For time I’ll put down what feels right because I never look at a clock to see when I began and ended the Step.   Was it 10 minutes?   20?   30?   2 hours?   4 hours?   Did I take a call in that build time window?   Did someone drop by and we talk about building or other important life events?   Did I look at and read ahead in the plans to make sure what I’m doing at the moment is not going to harm something later on?   I don’t really care; it all goes into the time.

An hour for me is not necessarily an hour of actual hands on build time.   To be sure, speed to me is important.   I’m not getting any younger and I want to use my plane as a travel machine, to visit family, friends and places, but I can only do what I can do.   I’m aiming to get this done within 3 years. There is no doubt in my mind that it will take at least 4, maybe more.   But it would be wonderful to be flying in less.   I will consider this a mistake if I take longer.   Why?   Because, even though I absolutely love building, and all that goes with it, especially the camaraderie, I love flying more.

Also, because I plan on building another plane, a low and slow one, with float capabilities.   Got to have more projects, you know.

04-22-06:  Buildus Interruptus

I once wrote an email to the RV-10 Matronics group that said I was in Buildus Interruptus. This is a state of being that prohibits one from working on the project. Reasons vary, such as a prolonged business trip, a bad cold or flu, even the dreaded family vacation! How could anyone not see the logic of working on the plane for two weeks straight? Why go somewhere else!

The interesting thing about this malady is that it proves RV (or other plane) building / restoring is addictive.   There cannot be any other explanation. When I pack for a business trip, I make sure I have the next 10 pages of manual with me, reduced in size on my home printer so the pages will fit in the briefcase.   The manual is my breakfast reading, my bathroom reading, and my bedtime reading. And the -10 manual is not even close to being difficult, as were the manuals of lower numbered RV's.   Not even close!   Since I'm now working my way through planning the panel, I've taken all the completed -10 panel pictures that I can with me, studying the layouts, mentally flying with each.   Given that we fly with sticks, this activity can be rather embarrassing in an airport lobby. Women tend to shoo their children away from me.

But! There are ways to deal with such sickness. Instead of going through the Buildus Interruptus withdrawal tremors, which have been known to become quite disruptive to others who are so unfortunate as to be around the victim during an episode, one can divert one's attention away from the symptoms to such endeavors as web site building. If you think an early RV-3 manual is tough, go down to your local B&N and buy two or three books on DreamWeaver and Coldfusion. Yeow! And they are so thick! Thank the higher powers that they give you a CD-ROM! Take one of those manuals on your next business trip and the plane won't get off the ground.

Another way out of the tremors is to visit other builders' projects and, rather than help, practice your disdainful tongue clucking noises, look down through the bottom of your trifocals while making the ever so insidious, critical, seemingly discreet touching motion with the index finger as you scrutinize a specific imperfection.   Ahhhh, the satisfaction of knowing that you've created worry and doubt in a fellow builder's mind who is actually building and not, as you are, away from his/her project.   Don't you just despise those who can actually build while you, staving off tremors, are forced to remain the tourist, content to watch?

Yes, you've guessed correctly. This is day 8 away from the project. Eight days of boredom and wasted building. I need back to the inner sanctum of the workshop. I need back to my addiction.

03-26-06  G.O.R.I.L.L.A

(An instructive note from John Cox, printed with permission.)  "As of 3:45 PM PST that day (March 9th), (it was) announced (Van's) had sold & shipped  564 RV-10 kits in the first 32 months.   That equates conservatively (VANS $90,000 estimate) to 53 Million dollars in International Aviation Economic Development.  I prefer to use Tim’s number of $169,000 which means more than 90 million.  Can you say G.O.R.I.L.L.A?......The RV-10 is going to have a far greater financial impact on the community than VAN originally admitted."  

03-23-06    Why build? 

Building things, or rather working with my hands, is what I do.  It's not what I do for a living, although perhaps it should have been.  I cannot stand to not make something myself, at least once.  Perhaps that is why I've tackled this plane and that is why I've done the web page.  It's more interesting that way. 

The other reason for building the plane is cost, of course.  As it is I really cannot afford it, perhaps trading off immediate reward for future old age comfort.  But, I love to fly, and I love to fly in comfort and with some speed.  That is what the RV-10 offers.  It also offers the chance to work on the plane myself.  I appreciate the fact that there would be far more accidents in GA if it maintenance were left to most pilots who are not inclined to do more than wash the windshield.  However, I cannot stand thinking that I must overpay someone else taking care of my plane when I know I can do at least as good a job. 

1.  Air pressure control is everything for good riveting.  Well, that's a little strong, but now that I know about the effect of pressure on riveting, my ability to make good rivets and fewer bad rivets has gone up dramatically.  I'm no longer banging and am now in fact riveting. 

2.  A good mass is also everything for good riveting.  You've got your gun under control, now you need sufficient mass to insure a smooth process of forming the shop head.  The problem is how to get a sufficient mass in some of those small spaces and positioned just right.  This leads to many attempts with many different shapes and sizes of bucking bars, with many not so good rivets as you experiment.  Finally, as you near the end of the particular row of difficult to reach rivets, you figure it out and the last 5 rivets out of 50 go real nice.  Perfect. 

Thoughts (Random & Otherwise)