Tools

Without getting too philosophical, tools can include anything you use to help build your plane, from a fancy digital level to a scrap 2x4 block of wood (which you'll need, by the way).  If you're just starting, best to visit one of the tool company's web sites to get an idea of the kits they have to offer.  Look on the Helpful Links page for their web sites, or for some, I give a link to the tool at the bottom of the description.

I typically go to Bob Avery's site only out of habit and the fact that he has taken care of me with excellent customer service.  But others are good, too.  Definitely shop around for deals on bulk items, such as clecos.  Also, although I don't usually do this, many have found great deals on eBay.  I've not had good luck there, but others swear by it. 

After each description I give the following, if appropriate: 

Importance.  Brand and Model.  Cost.

Band Saw.  Some might tell you that you don't need a band saw, and I guess technically you don't.  Get one.  For what you need, they are not that expensive.  You can get a Ryobi or Sears or Delta at HD or Sears or Lowes or Woodhaven for about $100.  Well worth it.  When you do get the saw, pick up 2 fine toothed blades.  It isn't necessary to get a metal blade.  Get one with 14 teeth per inch and you're good to go. 

And, if you are a woodworker, get one for the plane.  Don't use your good woodworking saw for aluminum, not because it won't have the correct blade, but because you are going to make a pile of aluminum sawdust and that doesn't do kindly things to your wood projects. 

High.  Delta. 9" BS100.  $100 

Grinder.  A necessity.  Get an 8" one.  You can mount a scotch brite wheel on one of these or on your drill press, but you'll also use the regular grinding wheels to make custom tools.  As is the case for the other power tools, you don't need to get the best.  These tools will outlast most of us and do the job needed for the plane. 

High.  Sears 8"  $120  

Drill Press.  Another necessity.  The one pictured is my woodworking drill press.  During a move the table got lost and the base cracked, so I have both on order.  In the meantime I have decided to buy a Delta bench model.  There have been too many times when I've needed a drill press and instead tried to do the job by hand.  DO NOT BE SO STUPID!  Go get a Delta or other brand and you'll be very happy.  12" minimum. 

The press is used for very accurate drilling of holes, but also for very accurate and consistent (which is an important word) machine countersinking.  I have a description on the problems pages about my experience with bad countersinking.  It cost me at least two or three days of work.  Do not walk, run to get yourself a drill press. 

High.  Delta Bench 12"   $180 at the most

Chop Saw.  If you have one, great.  If you think you might need one for other work and don't have one, then go get one.  If your shop does not have a table to build on and you want to build the EAA-1000 tables, and you don't have a chop saw, then by all means think about getting one.  However, I cannot say that plane building requires one. 

If you don't have one and you are planning to get one, think about a sliding chop saw.  I have an old Sears Radial Arm saw that I now no longer use because of the Makita that you see at the left.  I love it.  Pricey, but worth every penny. 

Medium.  Makita 10" Dual Compound Miter Saw.  $400. 

Bench Vise.  A necessity.  Get at least a 5" one.  Add some plastic magnetic jaw covers (red ones shown) so you don't mess up your aluminum.  Reversible jaws are also nice to have.  They are smooth on one side and ragged on the other for extra griping power.  Mount it to your main workbench. 

High.  Sears 5"  $60

Clamps.  You'll need many and various clamps.  I have a bunch of Jorgensen wood clamps, the orange one pictured, that come in handy from time-to-time.  The one handed vise clamp (yellow) is a must.  Then get various sizes of C-clamps.  The small and tiny ones were picked up from Sears, believe it or not.  I was there getting my bench vise and found that their section of clamps quite complete.  Finally, pick up a handful of the pinch clamps, shown at the bottom.  These are always handy, especially for closing open bags of tortilla chips after the BBQ and beer. 

You can go to Sears or HD or Lowe's or Woodhaven and find all of these and more.  You should get at least 4 to 6 big C-clamps, 4 one handed clamps, 4 each of the smaller C-clamps, and 6 to 8 (depending on if you open both tortilla and potato chip bags) of the pinch clamps.  I'd also get 4 of the Jorgensen (or similar) wood clamps, 18" or so.  I find all kinds of use for these. 

High.  Various Clamps.  Depends, but I would guess you'll spend $60 minimum. 

Scotch Brite.  You will be using Scotch Brite materials by the barrel full.  Sanding paper, too, of various grits, and various files.  But, when it comes to taking off material to reduce the size or smooth it out, nothing beats the many Scotch Brite pads and accessories. 

Pictured are two sizes of small Scotch Brite wheels you can chuck in your drill and use to clean up lightening holes and other locations.  There's also pictured a plastic tool to hold a small scrape of the Scotch Brite pad.  This "flapper" is great at finishing the odd hole or crevasse that you can get it into.  Again, chuck it in your drill.  The big pad is the medium scotch Brite pad that you buy in boxes of, I don't know, 12 or more.  Buy two boxes. 

Also shown is a roll of 120 grit sandpaper that I cut strips off of and use when deburring skin edges.  This technique was shown to me by my technical counselor, Dan Buena, builder of a beautiful RV-6A and now building an RV-10.  The block of wood is what I wrap either the scotch Brite pad (cut in fourths) or a strip of the sand paper. 

Necessity.  Scotch Brite.  Varies.

Deburring Tools.  Many of these tools will come with your tool kit, should you buy one from one of the main tool suppliers.  The blue handled tool is actually two tools in one.  The handle holds a deburring tip that screws into the holder.  That tip does both 1/8" and 3/32" holes.  One circle of the cutter removes the burr left after drilling to hole to size.  The yellow handled tool deburrs larger lightening holes or curved surfaces, while the silver handled tool with a v-shaped head just to its right deburrs edges.  Also pictured is an extension for the blue handled small-hole deburring tool. 

At the top are two sizes of Cogsdill deburring bits.  These can deburr in one stroke, if you will.  You mount these in a battery powered electric screwdriver, which turns at about the right speed, and move them in and out of the hole.  Some say they do not work as claimed, but I have found them to be invaluable and well worth the price.  Just takes some practice.   

Necessity.  Avery or Cogsdill or Cleveland.    $80 or so for the Cogsdill

Protection.  If you don't have and use these simple precautions, especially if you are young and have a young family, I will personally call on Larry the Lump to find and flog you!  Don't underestimate the value of those cheap yellow ear muffs, even when drilling.  Wear the eye protection always when drilling or deburring or sanding.  The full visor is very important when using the Dremel or cut off wheel (unless you really do like hot metal shards peppering your face). 

Now, when priming, you'll need to wear what the pros do.  Get a mask that is appropriate for your chemical.  ASK A PROFESSIONAL.  CALL THE MANUFACTURER.  Do not just go down to HD or Sears and buy what's on the shelf.  Then, when it comes time to paint, if you're doing your own, get a full respirator.  Nuff said. 

Necessity.  HD for the simple stuff.  Pro Shop for the respirator.   $100 max for what's pictured. 

Tools Page